Obsession with fair skin

If you drive on the roads of Phnom Penh, you will notice women on bicycles and moto bikes wearing gloves, socks with sandals and a hoodie on top of their regular outfit. No, it’s not because they are cold and they are not protecting their skin from the sun (intentionally anyway). It is to prevent their skin from getting darker. I first noticed the makeup. Women here wear foundation about 2-3 shades lighter than their complexion. Most Cambodians have naturally beautiful skin and are gorgeous so this was strange for me to witness as an observer. But I soon realized this was the culture.

I grew up with this in Pakistan and then saw the same thing in India. I remember the fair and lovely ads where a dark skinned girl would go for a job interview and get rejected. She  would then go back for the same position with the same qualifications after using Fair and Lovely for 8 weeks and would land the job. It was infuriating.  Just like in South Asia, Cambodians consider light skinned women more beautiful than the rest. It is difficult to find a picture of a regular woman around the city. Instead, you will find photoshopped models on billboards, on tv, and in photo studios. It is believed to be easier for a light skinned girl to find a husband. They are also treated with more respect. Ah Khmao is a frequently used derogatory nick name and it means “little darky”.  I wont go in to racism and discrimination but it definitely exists towards Africans and African Americans. Skin whitening creams are everywhere. Some salons offer bleaching treatments with powders they cannot name. When I asked a woman about it, she said it burns her face but the results are worth it!

A lot of tourists get Cambodian costume photos done during their stay. These are similar to the Cambodian wedding & family portraits. Even though these are great souvenirs, they also demonstrate the culture’s obsession with skin color. Everyone is lighter and no one looks like themselves. That is part of the charm for tourists, to see the transformation for themselves.

On Friday, I attended Phnom Penh Designers Week and was hoping the progressive modern group of designers would set the right example. But I was wrong. All of the designers only used light skinned Khmer models and one even used white cakey makeup to make the faces whiter. The venue was packed with Phnom Penh’s elite and the media and this would have been a great place to make a statement.

I am not sure why this disturbs me as much as it does considering the bigger problems of the world. But I hate that young girls will grow up believing they are second class because of their skin color. They won’t even try to be the best because they do not see the point. A social order has been created for them and they know where they stand. To me, the saddest thing in life is wasted potential.

The Turning Point

I have officially been a resident of Phnom Penh for two months now and it has finally started to feel like home. I remember the uncertainty I felt during the first few weeks. I remember asking myself questions like- Do I really want to stay for six months? Should I leave in three months? What is the point of all of this? And now I can’t imagine leaving early. I look at everyday as an opportunity to learn something new, to explore, to discover. 

I started French class on Monday and after a few tries, I finally found the right class for me.  I was supposed to be in an expat class for beginners but there weren’t enough of us and  I got bumped in to the next level but it was too advanced for me so I switched to the Khmer beginners class. This class has 15 Khmer students, 2 Canadians and me. Aside from learning French, I also get to learn about Khmer culture. On Thursday, I learned that the color brown is considered skin color here. You are either white or you are not and anything that is not is considered black. We were going over colors and the teacher pointed at me and said brown but the class was confused. So he explained the concept to them and then apologized and explained it in English to the 3 of us that don’t understand Khmer. Can you believe that? It so sad but yet so fascinating. Hearing anecdotes like these is my favorite part of traveling, when you actually learn about the culture by experiencing it. 

On Thursday, I also dropped my phone 3 stories down from my class balcony. I was admiring a mural across the street and wanted to take a picture when it fell out of my hands. Everyone watched it fall and I was hopeful someone would try to catch it and also hoping that someone wasn’t a thief. When I finally heard the sound of my phone hitting the ground, I ran down to retrieve it. At least a hundred people were watching in silence. When I picked up my case (it did not have a single crack) and my phone, everyone just had a look of sadness on their faces. It felt like I was in a movie..lol. I made my way back up and all my classmates asked if it was ok and if I was ok. I was surprisingly calm. I think if I was home, I would have immediately called Asghar to probably complain while feeling sorry for myself. But here, I sat in class and started repeating phrases after my teacher. I didn’t dwell on it any further because my new surroundings have taught me that this was actually nothing in the grand scheme of things. 

I also love my class because it is the one of the few places I am seen as an equal to my Khmer neighbor. No one is viewed as smarter or better. It gets tiring to be seen as a foreigner that can be exploited or as someone that is superior because of where they are from. Getting a tuk tuk or moto or going shopping requires a certain level of stamina because you have to mentally prepare yourself to bargain. The price for foreigners is usually at least 50% more than the price for locals.

I did want to get my phone fixed but I also did not want to pay $200 so I asked Gareth’s girl friend, Sokunthea, if she could join me for a few hours of shopping at the Russian Market. Russian Market is about 5 minutes from my apartment and a place where you can literally find anything and everything. We went on Saturday morning and it was such a different experience for me because I was accompanied by a local. No one was asking me to buy anything or pushing me to stop at their shop.  It was refreshing to be able to shop in peace. I was finally comfortable amongst the people. I went to the tailor and ordered some linen pants, I bought a dress and I found someone that could fix my phone. Because of Sokunthea, the asking price was fair and there was no need to haggle. She also showed me parts of the markets I had never seen before. I even found the famous ice coffee shop!  Mr. Bunnareth has been making ice coffee in the same market for 30 years and his coffee is considered one of the best in Phnom Penh. I was so excited that later in the afternoon, I came back to the market with a few friends to show them all the new places I had discovered because of Sokunthea.

I finally have a sense of assurance here I have not had since I left Jacksonville. I finally feel comfortable. I love the work I am doing but now I am enjoying the city too. Coincidentally, Our City festival is in town this week. It is Cambodia's first and only public festival to bring together creative ideas from Cambodian citizens. It is inspiring to be here to experience this wave of change, to see innovative ideas from locals that want to change their city and country for the better.  And I am eager to experience Phnom Penh through many different perspectives over the next four months. So much so that I even joined a crowd sourcing site for travelers to make sure I do not run out of money while volunteering. If you are interested in learning more you can do so at http://www.trevolta.com/travels/Volunteering-for-6-months-in-Cambodia-15132

Weekend in Singapore

I visited my 29^th country over the weekend, Singapore. My cousin, Saima, moved there a year and a half ago with her husband and I have wanted to visit ever since. Once I arrived to Cambodia, she quickly and generously booked my ticket. It is great having awesome older siblings. I took a half day on Friday and arrived in Singapore around 6pm. I had one goal for the trip, to eat as much as I comfortably could while seeing Singapore’s sights.

Friday

Saima met me at Changi airport and we took the MRT straight home to drop off my bag. I was so happy to use public transportation again! It was refreshing to be independent and not worry about bargaining techniques or language barriers. Our first stop was Satay Street near Lau Pa Sat market. This little street had about a dozen vendors comprising of Malaysian satay stalls, side dish stalls and beer vendors. We got a dozen sticks of chicken and beef satay. They were absolutely delicious and were a perfect introduction to my foodie weekend.  When most people think of street food stalls, they think of rodents and they assume their stomach will have a reaction. Singapore hawker markets are different. The country prides itself on its cleanliness and that is evident in the food stalls. Each stall displays their grade openly.  I didn’t see anything below a B during my trip.

Our next stop was to Maxwell house hawker center for Tian Tian’s Hianese Chicken rice. Unfortunately for me, it was closed and I did not get to try Singapore’s official dish. I will just have to go back for it. We explored Chinatown en route to our next destination and It was filled with people shopping for Chinese New Year. They streets were beautifully decorated and there were red lanterns everywhere. We walked through Mosque street and its beautiful red and white buildings followed by Pagoda street with Jamae Mosque and Sri Mariamman Temple. We made our way into the night market and walked in and out of all the little side streets before stopping at our next destination, a restaurant within the market known for its Szechuan cuisine. We ordered shrimp fried rice and a beef pepper dish. Both were absolutely delicious. I even tried some coconut water but don’t really understand why people love it. Our last stop for the evening was Club Street, a street filled with bars and restaurants which is closed to traffic after 7pm.  I loved the energy and atmosphere here because it reminded me so much of nights out in New York or London with friends.

Saturday

In the morning, we  headed downstairs in our pajamas for one of the best roti paratha stalls. This was a very simple meal of fried paratha stuffed with onions and eggs and it came with a side of daal. This was a quick meal because we wanted to get ready and start exploring. Since there are no public parks in Phnom Penh, I was desperately craving some park time so naturally we headed to the Botanical gardens for a lazy morning. The grounds are huge and free. There are beautiful sculptures everywhere. They also have an orchid garden and its costs $5. I left Arzi and Saima in the main lawn and went to see the orchids. They were beautiful and the garden had lots of great photo opportunities. Once I had my fill, I met up with my hosts and enjoyed lying on the grass and staring at the sky. Sometimes, you miss the simple things the most. 

Our next stop was Arab Street. This colorful neighborhood is home to some of the best Middle Eastern food and Sultan Mosque. We came here for Usman’s nihari and kebabs. Our lunch was a great balance of spice and flavor and fulfilled my craving of mom’s nihari. The area also houses lots of cute boutiques and gift shops. I loved all the street art in this neighborhood, especially with the mosque as a backdrop. We were tired and decided to head home for a quick nap and wardrobe change for the evening. 

After maybe sleeping a little too much, we got ready to head to Marina Bay Sands to catch the sunset. We went up to Ke De Ta for nice views of the water and Gardens by the Bay as well as the Singapore Skyline. It was beautiful! The bar gets very crowded so we headed back down pretty quickly. Maria Bay Sands has three towers and a mall. The mall reminded me of the malls in Vegas- huge, beautiful and expensive. We had to walk through most of it to get to the water show. Every day at 8:00pm and 9:30pm, the hotel treats its visitors to a free show which involves fire, music and projections on the water. It is about 20 minutes long and not quite as elaborate as the Bellagio but a good show nonetheless.

Next, we walked over Helix bridge and headed to dinner at Gluttons Bay. This is probably the best hawker center in the city because of its waterfront location and amazing food stalls. We opted for some chili crab, fried rice and carrot cake. Carrot cake was not our dessert. It is a radish dish with eggs, garlic, spring onions and turnip. You can also get it blackened which is with soy sauce. It was indeed a gluttonous meal but totally worth it.

Gluttons Bay is conveniently located next to Esplanade, an outdoor entertainment space. We met my friends Priya and Paul here to catch a free performance. The band wasn't the best so we decided to head to Clarke Quay instead. It was nice to walk along the river and take in the skyline and views of Merlion park, which houses Singapore’s official mascot the Merlion. The Merlion is a half merman and half lion creature and is probably the oddest thing I saw in Singapore. Clark Quay is a nice waterfront area of shops and restaurants and it reminded me very much of Birmingham’s waterfront area. We sat and enjoyed good conversation by the riverfront before calling it a night.

Sunday

We started pretty late in the morning and headed straight to Shiraz for some Shawarma. I had the lamb and it was comparable to the cart guy in NYC. I think I covered almost every type of protein during this trip. After our brunch, we headed to the shops on Orchard street in search of some linen pants for me. I could not find a single pair in the massive shopping district. I finally gave up after an hour and requested to leave the neighborhood. I felt like I was running out of time in Singapore and didn’t want to waste my remaining time in a mall. 

I was curious about Tiang Baru and since Saima and Arzi had never been I wanted them to explore something new with me. It is considered one of the oldest and hippest neighborhoods in Singapore.  We headed to its bakery for probably the best coffee I have had since moving to Asia. The baked goods were equally amazing. My blondie was so good, I was picking the crumbs off of my plate. We walked around the neighborhood and discovered an independent bookstore called Books Actually where I got some reading material for the trip back to Cambodia. I want to come back and spend a day exploring this neighborhood.

I loved everything about Singapore! I am a big city girl at heart and it was great to experience a large city with great infrastructure, public parks and public transportation. I ate to my heart’s content and was thoroughly spoiled by my lovely hosts. I know I will be back!

Protests in Phnom Penh

Cambodia has been in the news over the weekend after a week of protests.  These protests turned deadly on Friday when 23 protesters were injured and 4 were killed. A mass rally and march were scheduled for today but they never took place because the government banned all public gatherings and evicted the protesters from Freedom Park. These workers are demanding higher wages. There are over 800 garment and shoe factories in Cambodia and they employ 600,000 people, mostly women. Currently, the monthly salary is $80 per month and the government just raised it to $100 per month. However, factory owners don’t recognize this raise. Factories have been shut down and GMAC (Garment Manufactures Association in Cambodia) refuses to reopen until their safety is guaranteed. Workers are demanding a minimum of $160 a month. This salary often covers a household in Phnom Penh as well as family in the provinces.

Many of us view Southeast Asia as a cheap travel destination. When I decided to move here I thought I could make it work on my $300 monthly stipend. But I was wrong. My rent with utilities alone comes close to $200. Food and transportation are well above $100 a month.  I have to supplement my income with at least $200 from my own savings each month. And trust me when I say I try to spend the bare minimum. I can’t even begin to imagine how anyone can survive on just $80 and send money back home. Here is a great chart showing the difference in minimum wage vs. living wage http://www.cleanclothes.org/livingwage/living-wage-versus-minimum-wage

Garment factory workers work long hours in poor conditions to create products they can never afford.  After the events this week, I have really started to think about my shopping habits and the clothes I wear. I only brought a fraction of my clothes to Cambodia, things I don’t really mind ruining and leaving behind.  But after living here for 6 weeks, I have come to realize that I really don’t need everything I have and can easily live with less. Asghar has always pushed for this way of thinking but I always found an excuse to buy a new top or new skirt. Now I see a human life attached to each item of clothing. I see it as something that was made with someone else's sweat and blood.

Why don’t we care? The garment industry and its sweat shops have been in the news for years. Bangladesh alone has received extensive coverage after the factory fires. But nothing has changed. The working conditions are still poor and the wages are still low. We have the power as consumers to demand more. We support this industry blindly and willingly and it is not ok, at least for me and I hope for you too. 

Happy New Year!

2013 has been a fantastic year for me.  It was filled with amazing moments, great trips, and wonderful accomplishments. When I look back I feel extremely lucky to live the life that I do.  But the last few months of the year have had a big impact on me. I hope I remember these moments forever because they have awakened something inside of me.

This time last year, I was asked to be executive producer of TEDxJacksonville and I apprehensively accepted. I was so nervous about taking on the event but am so glad that I did. The event allowed me to see Jacksonville in a new light. It made me fall in love with the city for its flaws and its potential. I also met some amazing people and am so honored to now call them my friends. You all know the quote, “surround yourself with the dreamers and the doers, the believers and thinkers, but most of all, surround yourself with those who see the greatness within you, even when you don’t see it yourself.”  All my TEDxJacksonville team members are a source of inspiration for me because the status quo is never good enough for them. They constantly push me and make me want to do more.

This doesn’t just apply to friends and family. I believe this is also true about people you encounter in passing. I witnessed two demonstrations this week. Garment factory workers were protesting their wages and demanding change. This would have never happened in Cambodia before the age of social media and its power to amplify stories. The poor finally feel they have a voice and that the world is listening. Seeing them fight for what is fair and just was an amazing moment. 

Over the past few weeks, I have developed a friendship with a Cambodian colleague.  Ra is a recent college graduate and is transitioning from a volunteer role to a fulltime position at Aide et Action. He is so excited about the opportunity and the fact that he can help change the status of education in Cambodia.  He asked me to help him with some of his projects because he wants to make them more effective. He doesn’t want to settle for mediocrity and is genuinely passionate about his work. When I get back home, I hope I am as passionate as him about my job. 

On the way back from a field trip this week, I made eye contact with a teenage boy while getting off of a ferry. He had severe scarring on his face and was in old unwashed clothes and torn slippers. His eyes had a look of uncertainty.  I kept thinking about him. I felt guilty because I have everything and he had nothing. I see this every day and am still not sure how to process it.  I moved out to Cambodia to see the challenges of development first hand and it has been a struggle. Today, news spreads like wildfire but sometimes it feels like the wrong news is getting all the attention. How do we keep the plight of others relevant when mainstream news channels choose to focus on reality tv stars and celebrities? 

I want to take these moments with me in 2014 because I want them to continue to push me. Fear is a waste of time and during moments of weakness we allow it to conquer us. The unknown is only the unknown until you try it. I hope each of you tackles something you have always wanted to in this New Year. 

Arizona Roadtrip: Antelope Canyon, Grand Canyon and Sedona

Arizona had been on my list for a while and I finally got to go in November. Back in May, Jill and I attended a charity event on behalf of PACE and to keep ourselves entertained we participated in the silent auction. We ended up bidding against each other for 2 round trip Southwest Airline tickets. I soon realized that our husbands don’t actually have the vacation time to take another trip with us so I convinced her to take a vacation with me if we won. We ended up winning the tickets and booked a fall trip to Arizona. Jill is great to travel with because she lets me plan everything and only wants to see pictures of our destinations. Our itinerary included Antelope Canyon, Horseshoe Bend, Grand Canyon, and Sedona. 

Friday

We arrived into Phoenix close to 10 pm and were exhausted. Luckily, the car rental line was short. I had reserved an economy car but our customer service rep strongly recommended a 4x4 so we caved and went with his suggestion. Our hotel was a short drive away and we quickly checked in and went to bed. Around 2 am, someone tried to enter our room. Jill tried to wake me up but I was sound asleep and did not respond to her kicking. She is the responsible one and had put the latch on so our visitor was unable to get in. She got up and looked out the window and once the man saw her, he left. Apparently, the hotel staff did not check us in properly and they thought our room was unoccupied and gave it to another guest. Scary at first but it was fine in the end.

Saturday
We started our trip bright and early at 6am. Our plan was to be in Antelope Canyon for the 12 pm tour because we were told the sunlight is best at this time. We drove through the beautiful state of Arizona for 5 hours and saw huge cacti, gorgeous landscapes and Native American tribes along the way. The cacti outside of Phoenix blew me away because they were gigantic. I don't know why but we were an hour or so ahead of our Google maps arrival time. Not saying we didn't drive a little fast. The drive was also really easy because there were no cars on the road. We arrived at 11 and decided to join the 11:30 tour. It is really easy to miss the entrance so drive slowly on the main road. One thing we did not know was that all the tours led by Native Americans only accepted cash and we were short by about $20. The staff was so kind. They let us go on the tour without paying and told us to come back with the cash at some point during the day. One thing to remember: all Navajo sites require a guide whether you want one or not. 

Antelope Canyon actually has two parts, upper and lower. We visited the upper canyon because online reviews said the lower canyon required climbing and we both did not want to risk anything with our bad backs. We got on a pickup truck with six other people from  Switzerland, France and Thailand and headed into the canyon. We were blown away as soon as we entered. Everyone was oohing and aahing at the narrow passageways. We were 100-130 feet below the ground and it was amazing to look up and see the different shapes. Our guide explained the different formations and their spiritual relevance for the Native Americans. He also warned us about flash flooding in the area. Tourists have been stranded in the past because water comes in quickly and with great pressure. We were lucky to have the canyon to ourselves in the beginning of the tour and really enjoyed the personal stories of our guide. He helped us take beautiful pictures and showed us how water, sand and sunlight affect the canyon. We could not believe the shades of light at every angle and how quickly it all changes. Naturally, we took way too many photos. 

Once our hour was up, we headed into town to look for an ATM and found a Walmart instead. I bought some flaming hot cheetos and was able to get cash back. Snacking led to lunch. The restaurant of choice: Jack in the box. It was my first time and Jill said I had to have the experience. I felt guilty about eating fast food and opted for their healthy rice bowl. I regret the decision because I still don't know what their burgers taste like and there is no Jack in the box in Florida. I guess I will have to go back.

Before heading back to pay our trusting guide, we made a quick detour for Horseshoe Bend. Horseshoe Bend overlooks one of the most spectacular views of the Colorado River. It is located just off of the local highway and again if you go too fast, you might miss the small sign. You have to walk on a dirt road for about 10-15 minutes to reach the sight. Under the desert sun, this can get intense but it is totally worth it once you reach your destination. 

Once we cleared our debt, we started our journey to the Grand Canyon. Our goal was to arrive by sunset. I don’t know why but, outside of Phoenix, we barely saw a car on the road. This led me to stop the car and take pictures on the road with the beautiful backdrop and it really made me feel like I was on a road trip! We arrived at the Grand Canyon about 30 minutes before sunset and got free admission in honor of Veterans Day. We entered from the east entrance of the South Rim and stopped at the visitor center before making our way to Lipon point to see the sun off. The canyon makes you feel so small because it looks like it goes on forever. The canyon was filled with colors from the sunset  and it was amazing to see the shading change in a matter of minutes. 

I had booked us a room in Grand Canyon Village at Bright Angel Lodge. It was about $200 a night but totally worth it if you want to take in the entire South Rim. Our room faced the canyon and was near the shuttle bus stop. It is probably cheaper to stay outside of the park but we didn't want to waste time traveling to and from the hotel. The village is a little community. There is a post office, bank, grocery stores and loads of restaurants. We enjoyed a low key dinner near the lodge and walked along the canyon under the stars before heading to bed. 




Sunday
The shuttle bus system in the park is amazing and so user friendly. Park rangers told us the red route is best for sunrise and so we woke up at 5, bundled up and ran to catch the first shuttle. We decided to catch the sunrise at Hopi Point. I think for me sunrise was even prettier than sunset. Surprisingly, many other people woke up to see it as well. We decided to take advantage of the no car route and walked along the trail for an hour or so before catching the shuttle back to our lodge. This was a great idea because it felt like we had the park all to ourselves. 

After breakfast, we explored art galleries and souvenir shops before heading to the South Kaibab Trail for our hike to the Ooh Aah Point. Jill and I walked at a comfortable pace and took a lot of pictures of the great views. It was great to see the canyon from a different vantage point. Although it was a short trip, we loved the peaceful environment and want to come back to explore the North Rim. I have seen many pictures but the Grand Canyon is truly unbelievable in person and I don't think a picture can really capture its presence.

Our next destination was Sedona and you guessed it...we made it there by sunset. The drive from Grand Canyon to Sedona is also very beautiful. Once you enter Oak Creek Canyon, you begin to see the red rocks all around you. There is something very calming about them. More on that later.  I had booked us a room at the Sky Ranch Lodge. Once we checked in, we realized we had our very own deck with views of the red rocks and our hotel also had a private terrace with great views. It was perfect. I can’t even begin to explain the colors we saw as the sun as was leaving.  We couldn't have been any happier with our trip and everything we had witnessed thus far. To celebrate, we decided to treat ourselves to a delicious dinner at Dahl & Di Luca. The food was ridiculously good. And the service was exemplary. We decided to get our leftovers packed so we could enjoy them at breakfast. It was that good.

Monday

We woke up for sunrise and, as an added bonus, we got to see the red rocks alongside hot air balloons. There was something very soothing about this. I think I was a little emotional  because I knew I would be leaving the country in a week. Once the sun was up, we warmed up our food and enjoyed breakfast on our deck and took in the view. It never got old. 

We kept seeing signs about vortexes and decided to ask the hotel staff about them. Their first response to Jill was, “you know you can’t actually see it right?” They gave us a map of four of the more common vortexes. We decided to hike to the one closest to us, airport mesa.  Vortexes are claimed to be spiritual locations with an energy flow that is perfect for meditation and healing. We didn't necessarily believe this but wanted to experience it nonetheless.  When we got up to the top, we were blown away by the 360 view. It was beautiful no matter where we looked.  We were in awe.  I can’t speak for Jill but I thoroughly enjoyed the experience. It was so serene and really made me forget about everything else in the world. For those wondering about the energy force, we did see twisted tree branches and people claim these are caused by the energy flow.

We wanted to see some up the formations up close so we drove to Red Rock Crossing for views of Cathedral Rock. Their park is great for a walk and a picnic. Afterwards, we drove around town and saw Bell Rock, Teapot, Camel Rock and many others. Before driving back to Phoenix, we really wanted to hike up Devil’s bridge. Our trip was going so smoothly and of course something had to go wrong. Once we checked out and got in the car, the car wouldn't start. We tried a few times and called the car rental company but kept getting their voicemail. Our hotel’s maintenance guy tried to jump start the car and wasn't successful either. Finally, after 45 minutes we decided to move the gear shifter around and voila the car started. We were nervous about driving the car but had no alternatives because the car rental company never called us back. An hour behind schedule, we still decided to pursue devil’s bridge but completely underestimated how much time it would require. First, you definitely need a 4x4 to get close to the start of the hike. Second, once you get to the start of the hike (which is 45 minutes on foot from from the entrance) it is another hour from there. We were nervous about missing our flight so we hitched a ride back to our car and headed to the airport. 

On the way back, Jill convinced me to stop on the highway by the giant cacti and take pictures. Initially, I was nervous about time but decided to give in and I’m glad I did because I really didn't grasp their size until I was next to one. We made it back to the airport with time to spare and were celebrating our great trip when then we got another blow. Southwest wouldn't let us use our tickets because they had apparently expired. We argued and asked for a manager and won in the end but the manager came to our assistance about an hour too late. Our flight left and our best option was to spend the night in Nashville on our own dime. We were disappointed about missing our flight and upset because we could have used the day to hike up Devil’s bridge instead of wasting time in the airport and in Nashville. There was a shuttle waiting for us in Nashville and I was really baffled by the name of the company. I won’t say anything else but include the picture for you.

Tuesday

We arrived back in Jacksonville safe and sound. I really enjoyed exploring Arizona and want to go back out west to visit New Mexico, Montana and Utah. Prior to 2013, I really undervalued America as a travel destination because I did not realize how much there is to see. After visiting five new states and two national parks this year, I have come to realize that America is absolutely beautiful.  

Staff Retreat to Sihanoukville

It has officially been a month since I moved to Cambodia. At times it is a little hard to believe because it still feels like I just got here. I have been on trips with work every week and that has definitely made the weeks go by much quicker. 

We had our staff retreat this week. The destination was Sihanoukville. We left at 7:30 am on Wednesday morning. Most of the local staff  brought their spouse and children along for the trip. The children were quite entertaining during the journey. Sihanoukville is only 3.5 hours from Phnom Penh. All of the foreigners, including myself were expecting to arrive at the hotel by the afternoon. We actually got there at 5:30pm! What we didn’t know is that Cambodians like to make a thing out of EVERYTHING. It worked out for me because I got to see new sights but it was still a little frustrating. Our first stop was for breakfast. We stopped on the side of the highway and put down some mats for our group of 35. The menu was roasted duck with rice or roasted chicken with rice. I just had some rice because I can't handle meat that early in the morning. 

Our next stop was a holy site for Buddhists. It was a beautiful valley where Buddhists believe a spirit lives. Almost all the locals got off to pray and to take some pictures. Next, we headed to lunch at a resort. A resort in Cambodia does not mean what does in the States. Here a resort implies a hut with hammocks and a stopping point for food. Unfortunately for us, the bridge to our resort was damaged so we took the long way there. This involved an unpaved road, loads of bumps and another 2 hours added to our trip. Lunch included Tom Yum Soup (hot & sour) and roasted chicken.  It was all delicious! The good thing about resorts is that after a meal you are expected to lounge around in the hammocks for forty minutes to an hour. So we did just that before heading to Sihanoukville.

 

After some more bathroom breaks we finally arrived at the hotel  two hours behind schedule so we nixed the team building activities and headed straight to the beach for dinner. This time the menu was seafood fried rice, soup, bbq lamb, squid and beef. This was exactly what we all needed after a long day on the bus. We ended the night with Christmas gifts. Everyone drew a number and the prizes included carry on suitcases, kitchen appliances and cash. I won the top prize of $40! It was a great way to start the retreat.  Anjana’s husband (Ujwal) and sister (Srijana) arrived a little after dinner so I explored afterwards with them.

The next day half the group headed to Koh Rang Island and the other half stayed in Sihanoukville. We left at 8 am and were scheduled to arrive on the island by 10:30 am, so we thought. We actually arrived on the island at 2:00 pm after two stops and a lot of sick people. I threw up as well. It was awful and something I would rather not experience again. The boat captain did not apologize for his deception or the fact that he stopped at another island to drop off tiles for his business. He wanted us to be back on the boat by 3:00 pm. Frustrated and helpless, a few of us took matters into our own hands and paid $13 for a fast boat back to Sihanoukville. This boat left at 4:00pm and gave us a full two hours to enjoy the island. We made the most of it by sleeping on hammocks on the beach and indulging in some hamburger and french fries (I am still not satisfied by the fries here). It only took us forty minutes to get back! Instead of commiserating on our awful day we decided to sit on the beach and take in the beautiful sunset before heading to dinner. It was beautiful and relaxing!

 

For dinner, the entire group headed to a Chinese restaurant and had some shrimp and squid dishes with fried rice. Very fattening but delicious. Afterwards,we all went to a KTV bar, better known as Karaoke. The kids had a blast and some of the adults sang too. I sang My heart will go on with Laetitia and Wanna be with four other girls. We were all pretty tired from our long day so we headed back to the hotel in an hour or so.

I woke up the next morning sore and in pain from all the bouncing I did on the bus and on the boat. We checked out right after breakfast and headed to Ream National Park. I said my goodbyes to Anjana, Srijana and Ujwal because they were heading to Siem Reap from Sihanoukville later in the day. 

Ream is only 35 minutes outside of Sihanoukville and we spent most of our day there. We got there around 9:30am and stopped at a guest house and ordered shrimp, crabs and squid. They had cages outside on the water and after catching our meal they started cooking. Because the meal would take two hours or so, a few of us decided to walk around and explore. Laetitia introduced us to Ream guest house and its peaceful location. We ordered coffee and just sat and took in the view.  

We timed our arrival perfectly with lunch and man was it delicious. I learned how to eat a crab! I thought I knew but I didn’t and had been throwing away so much meat. Again, we ate too much and slept on hammocks afterwards. I don’t understand why people aren’t fat here. We headed home and only made two more stops. Even though we ended up only completing one team building activity, I still feel like I learned a lot about the culture and my colleagues. We arrived shortly after 7pm and my lovely motodap driver was waiting for me.

I woke up on Saturday with a cold, probably because the bus was freezing. Nothing major but annoying because it is 80 degrees outside and I am shivering. I spent all of Saturday in bed and missed a friend’s Christmas dinner. I hope I get better just as quickly as I got sick.