Myanmar: Bagan & Mandalay

Monday

We arrived in Bagan at 4am. Our eight hour bus ride was actually one of the most comfortable over night bus rides we have had. The seats reclined, we had blankets, and we got snacks and drinks. And we arrived on time. We were expecting delays because buses never arrive on time in Cambodia.

Once we got in, we got in the back of a pickup truck taxi and headed to Mya Thida hotel, a quiet hotel in New Bagan. We were totally caught off guard by our first glimpse of the temples. They came out of nowhere and their beauty left us speechless. We couldn’t believe where we were! We kept turning right and left to observe them all in the predawn light. Suddenly, our desire to sleep and shower went away but we knew we had the next few days to explore so we decided to continue on to the hotel.

After settling in and napping for a few hours, we freshened up and headed out to explore in the afternoon. We grabbed a quick and cheap local lunch before securing our rides for the day. We decided on renting bicycles and figured it would be help us stay in shape while getting us from one sight to another. Needless to say, after 30 minutes of biking we realized we should have rented ebikes instead. Lesson learned- don’t try to get in shape after being lazy for 3 months.

It was also really hot. We were advised to stay in between 12-3 because the sun’s heat becomes unbearable. We finally realized why men and women wear skirts in Myanmar, better known as Lyongis. You can get them in many fabrics but for day to day activities most people use cotton. The fabric is tied around the waist and runs down to the ankle. Men tend to fold it up to their knees when it’s too hot. Now we konw why.

Back to our excursion. It was so nice to explore on our own and stop whenever we felt like. We rode from New Bagan to Old Bagan without any real itinerary. When we stopped to look at Thatbyinnyu Pahto, a young man approached us and asked if we wanted better views. Without hesitation, we said sure and followed him. He took us to a smaller, less known temple next to Gawdawpalin Pahto. As a gesture of respect, we took our shoes off before entering and followed our new guide. He helped us climb to the top for the beautiful view. It was just about time for sunset and we had 360 views of the river and the temples around us. We were not alone. There were loads of local kids there and once we said Ming la ba, hello in Burmese, they couldn’t stop giggling and asking us a lot of random questions. It’s amazing how much of a difference an effort to connect in the local language can make.

After enjoying our view, our guide took us to a nearby temple for another sunset view. We felt totally spoiled and like we were living in a dream. Before saying goodbye, Zimoe (our guide) offered to show us some of his art. We happily agreed to look at his work and were blown away and ended up buying a few pieces. We thanked him again for showing us his favorite temples and for providing us with a great first day. After another local dinner, we headed back to the hotel. Once we got back, we met our German neighbors in the room across and discovered they were heading to Mount Popa the next day. We wanted to visit the extinct volcano and asked if we could join them and their friends. They were very sweet and said of course.  

Tuesday

Our day started bright and early at 7:30am. After a quick breakfast at the hotel, we headed off with Sylvia and Jutte and their two friends. We never expected to spend a day with German ladies in their 60s but it was so much fun. The two friends were a bit reserved and cautious because we challenged their definition of normal. But we didn’t care because Sylvia and Jutte made us feel at ease.

Our tour started at a Whiskey distillery outside of Bagan. I have absolutely no interest in Whiskey and took this time to just observe the people and the process. I was amazed people could even try Whiskey at 8:30am! Besides the whiskey, there were vendors selling local crafts, candy and one woman was putting thanaka on guests. Thanaka is a yellowish paste made from ground bark and the Burmese (both men and women) apply it to their face as a form of sun block. Naturally, we followed and got some on our faces as well. Initially, it did have a cooling affect but I’m not sure if it actually protected my skin all day.

Thirty minutes later we were on our way to Mount Popa. Our first sight was a spot 15 minutes away from the mountain. This was the perfect photo op spot because it offered views of the mountain while highlighting how high we were about to go (5000 feet above sea level). After taking in the view, we carried on and arrived at our destination. This sight is definitely not just for tourists. Locals are the primary visitors because the mountain is a pilgrimage sight. There are numerous temples at the base and on top of the mountain. We climbed up 777 steps to reach the top and it was an underwhelming experience for me. The views from afar and the journey were much more interesting than the actual temple.

Once everyone had their fill, we headed back to Bagan. We were all tired and ready for a nap and a shower. Our German friends were done exploring for the day but after a quick rest, we decided to head out for the sunset. This time we opted for ebikes. These motorized scooters were a dream. They were fast and didn’t require any effort from us!

Shwesandaw is recommended for sunsets but it is filled with tourists. We drove around and chose a smaller temple nearby with equally amazing views. The sun started setting just on the time and the views were incredible. We were all silently staring at the sky because we had no desire to do anything else. We also met a lovely couple from England at the temple. They had been to Burma in the seventies when they embarked on a road trip from Calcutta to London in a beetle. The best part of traveling is meeting fellow travelers and exchanging stories from your favorite trips.

We drove back to New Bagan and met our new German friends for dinner. They were so intrigued by our rides that after dinner, we gave them all lessons. It was a little scary but we all had a blast. One of them really enjoyed it and decided to rent an ebike the next day. 

Wednesday

We had an early start on our last day. We woke up at 4:30 in order to catch the sunrise. We got on our ebikes and went back to the same temple from our first day. We didn’t realize we could get there from the main road and ended up taking a dirt road there. This quickly turned into an adventure because a stray dog started chasing us. I think because we woke him up. It was really scary because it felt like he was going to jump on the bike and start attacking us. To make matters worse, our bikes were not steady on the dirt path. When we finally got on the main road, we quickly parked and ran up the temple and climbed up to our seats. While waiting for the sun, we saw the dog come up the steps! We could not believe he followed us in! By this point we were trying to figure out how to scream for help if it came to that.

Luckily, the same kids from the first day also came to catch the sunrise and chased the dog away. The sun started to rise and slowly lit up each temple one by one. It was  breathtaking. And then the hot air balloons started coming up. We just smiled and watched. Ill never forget this sunrise.

We headed back to the hotel for breakfast and mapped out which temples we actually wanted to explore from the inside and headed back out with an ambitious itinerary and a tiny lonely planet map. Our first stop was Dhammyangi followed by Sulamani and Pathyda. All three were very well kept and because we went at an odd time, there was nobody there. We literally had the best temples all to ourselves! Dhammyangi is the largest temple in Bagan. Sulamani is one of my favorites because of the well preserved frescos inside. These murals are from the 12^th-19^th centuries and were absolutely beautiful and really do transport you to another time.

Pathyda was by far the best for the views. No matter how many times we saw the temples, the view never got old. We had to take a lot of dirt roads to get there and it was totally worth it. This huge pagoda has the largest open terrace up top and is in the middle of the plains. The fact Jenny and I had it to ourselves made the experience even more special.

We finished our day by driving through Old Bagan and exploring the other side of town and the river. After a quick lunch, we left our hotel on a pickup and said goodbye to the temples one last time. We had an absolutely amazing time in this magical city and would highly recommend you go before it is transformed by the tourism industry.

Our trip was slowly coming to an end as we headed to Mandalay, only a short 3 hours away. After settling into the hotel, we headed out for a quick and cheap curry and paratha dinner at a local spot. We didn’t really connect with the city on our first night probably because it was late and things quiet down pretty early in the evening.

Thursday

Our plan was to take a local shuttle boat across the river for a day in Mingun. We were told the jetty was about 15-20 minutes away so we decided to walk. After walking through the local markets and seeing the hustle and bustle of Mandalay we realized that 20 minutes had already passed but we saw no sign of the river. We asked again and were told just another 10 minutes. It ended up being a good 45 minute walk and we missed our ferry by 5 minutes. The people of Myanmar are extremely punctual.

This is when we met George. He felt bad for us and wanted to help and one hour later, we had our very own taxi for the day for only $20. We spent the hour learning about his city and his life. I am not sure what we would have done if he had not helped us.

Our taxi was a pick up and so we jumped in the back and started our very bumpy but fun ride to Mingun. Mingun is 90 minutes away by car and is known for its unfinished temple. The unfinished temple literally has a pile of bricks inside. The outside frame also has giant cracks from an earthquake. The construction was stopped because of a prophesy that stated the country would be destroyed once the construction was completed. This wasn’t very exciting so we proceeded to the Mingun bell. People say it is the largest working bell in the world and the builder was executed in order to prevent him from making anything similar. We poked our heads under the bell and got some nice photos.

The best part about Mingun is Hsinbyume Pagoda, otherwise known as the white temple. Its wavy exterior is striking and unique. It has seven tiers which represent the seven mountain ranges around Mount Meru, the center of the universe in Buddhism. The view from the top includes the Irrawaddy River and the surrounding hilltops.

On our way back, we stopped in Sagiaing for another great panoramic view and then headed to U Bein bridge. The bridge is laid over Taungthaman lake and is made entirely of teak wood. This was an extra special place for me because it is on the cover of the Lonely Planet Southeast Asia book I purchased two days before moving to Cambodia. U Bein is actually in Amarapura which is only 15 minutes from Mandalay.

The bridge is busy all day since locals use it regularly to get from their homes in Taungthaman village into the city. We arrived around 3pm and crossed over the almost 4000 ft long bridge. Our first stop was Kyauktawgyi Temple. There was barely anyone there aside from a few monks. We decided take some time out and try to meditate. It was a calming experience even if I could only do it for about five minutes. Jenny stopped at ten minutes.

After exploring the grounds and watching a few locals weave baskets, we headed to a lake front café to wait  for the sunset. We recounted our favorite parts of the trip and how amazing the whole experience had been for us. And then the sun began to set. It was so bright and golden. The sun just bled in to the sky and we had one of the best views overlooking the lake and the bridge. After we were fully satisfied, we decided to head back but noticed the staff of the restaurant throwing empty coconuts into the lake. They asked us to join and we did along with one of their children. The laughter from that experience connected us all and it felt like a very intimate experience.

When we began to walk back, we noticed a group of monks getting out of a van and heading towards the bridge. Jenny quickly ran to take pictures and then somehow we became monk groupies. They started asking us a lot of questions and we all began to walk on the bridge together. Two of them spoke perfect English and were telling us about their temple in Yangon and their trip to Mandalay. The other tourists on the bridge were staring at us with confusion because they couldn’t understand how we managed to infiltrate the group. It was refreshing to hear that they were just like us and want the same things in life, they just also happen to be monks. Halfway through, they began to head back to their car and we said our goodbyes. This is where we met the pakora man and almost began to cry. 

After we crossed back to Amarapura, we found our driver and headed back to the hotel. What was supposed to be a day in Mingun ended up being so much more. It really goes to show that you never know what will come your way. You just need to be ready to experience it.

Friday

Our flight back to Bangkok was late in the morning so we grabbed a quick breakfast at the hotel and then made our way to the free Air Asia shuttle. They don’t advertise this too much but it is such a helpful service.

Jenny and I finally said our goodbyes and it was really hard. We had formed such a close friendship over the last 3 and a half months and had really become emotionally dependent on another during our time in Cambodia. We both left knowing we will see each other again and that we had gained a sister from this experience. 

Myanmar: Yangon

Our trip to Myanmar began bright and early on a Saturday morning. Jenny and I met in Bangkok the night before as a precautionary measure since our Air Asia flight was at 7am. Air Asia is a budget conscious traveler's dream! The airline really does make the inaccessible accessible and I am so grateful I got to see Myanmar because of their low cost flights. Everything went off without a hitch and we arrived into Yangon bright and early at 8:30 am.

Saturday  

As soon as we landed we noticed a huge difference from Cambodia. Taxi drivers stated the fair price from the beginning and we didn’t have to fight! We arrived at Cherry Guest House, our lovely hotel near Sule Pagoda, around 9 am but were not guaranteed a room until 2pm. The manager was pretty nice and said he would make sure to have a room ready for us by noon.

We decided to drop off our bags and explore for a few hours. Our first stop was 999 Shan Noodle Shop for breakfast. This little hole in the wall spot was a block away and really easy to find. I ordered the Shan Noodle with Chicken and Jenny got the Shan Noodle with sticky rice. To our surprise, the meal started with a free bowl of delicious soup with crispy wontons. We literally finished our serving in matter of minutes but didn’t think the servers would take this as a sign to refill our bowls for free! Our meals arrived with our second serving of soup and we were slightly overwhelmed. Both of our noodles were so flavorful! We were so excited by our happy taste buds that we finished everything and left completely stuffed.  The noodle shop was recommended by the New York Times and we were so glad we followed the recommendation. We ended up coming back the next day!

Sule Pagoda was only a short walk away so we headed there next. This quiet pagoda serves as a major intersection in downtown. There is a $3 admission fee and in hindsight we probably would not have visited it had we seen Shwedagon first. The temple is small and can easily be be viewed in 30-45 mins. We decided to sit and take in the experience since we were in no rush.

Afterwards, we decided to explore the old colonial buildings around us. Maha Bandula Park sits in the center and is surrounded by the old city hall and the high court. It was too hot to appreciate the buildings so we decided to take shelter in the park. It was the weekend and there were a lot of people out and about. I don’t know about you but I was expecting the Burmese to be reserved and somber after years of military rule. But they were the opposite. They like to sing cheerful songs. They like to smile and have beautiful smiles. They are affectionate. They hold hands, they hug, and they kiss openly and without a sense of shame. It was lovely to see. Their happiness was contagious and we felt so lucky to be able to experience it with them.

We met our first set of monks and really enjoyed our time with them. One of them was the cool monk from the last post. They were up to date on  world news and were asking us about Germany, Sri Lanka, Pakistan and the United States. It was refreshing and it made us feel like we had been in Myanmar for days.

By this time our room was ready and we were very excited to shower and escape the afternoon heat with a nap. When the sun’s rays were calmer, we headed back out and at the end of our street a man selling sweets stopped us. He asked were Jenny was from and was so excited to hear that she was born in Sri Lanka and could speak Tamil. We promised him we would stop by on our way back to have a proper chat.  We continued on to  Bogyoke Aung San Market, the largest market in town, to do some shopping. The souvenirs and crafts were colorful and unique, we couldn’t help but admire everything. Afterwards, we explored the streets of Chinatown and the simplicity of life around us. The houses had so much character, each was rustic and colorful and I felt taking a picture of every single one.

Photo by Jenny 

Our walk ended in the Chinatown night market where you could get fresh skewers of meat and vegetables with a cold drink of your choice. We decided to grab a snack and enjoy the sunset with a cool beverage. After interacting with a few locals, we headed back to our hotel and were pleasantly surprised to see loads of new street vendors preparing dinner. Naturally, we wanted to try everything. Our first stop was for some paratha with lentils. OMG. I cant still taste it. At 200 kyats, it cost close to nothing but was the most delicious snack. We were tempted to buy more but decided to be reasonable because we wanted to save room for all the other stalls.

Our next stop was for kebabs. We were attracted by the smell but were not sure what everything was and the man next to me sensed my confusion. He not only explained what each dish was but he also bought our meal. Pakistan came up during our conversation and him and his wife were so happy to meet a fellow Pakistani! They began to refer to Jenny and I as their daughters. I told them I really missed Faluda, a delicious dessert from Pakistan, and they immediately said you have to come with us to another restaurant. We went and they ordered me a Faluda and insisted on paying for it. Their love and generosity were humbling. They also invited us to their home for lunch the next day but unfortunately, we were unable to attend. 

By this point, we were beyond full and so happy. We had one last stop to make and that was dessert with the lovely Tamil man on our street. He fed us more servings of sweets than we could handle and we were happy to oblige because of the joy on his face. Knowing we had an early morning ahead of us we politely excused ourselves once we finally finished all the pieces of sweets on our plate. 

After a quick rest, we headed back out to meet a fellow University of Birmingham alum. Pyone had kindly agreed to meet me for a drink and to welcome me to her city. We did not study together but our love of international development and Myanmar made the conversation really engaging. It was fascinating to learn about Myanmar’s diverse ethnic groups and rich political history from a local’s perspective. We met at Sky Bistro, a lovely restaurant on the 20^th floor with views of the city. We could see Shwedagon Pagoda from miles away and were captivated by its golden beauty.

Sunday

We woke up bright and early at 4:30am the next day to catch the sunrise at Shwedagon Pagoda. This beautiful golden temple defines the city’s skyline. It has been part of the Burmese identity for over 2500 years and contains eights hairs of the Buddha. It’s huge! You could easily spend hours exploring each and every corner, which is exactly what we did. First, we sat and just observed the ceremonies. We were surprised to see how many people were there to pray so early in the morning. It was a very calming experience. Next, we walked around full circle and were lucky enough to catch the sunrise reflecting on the gold plates.

We did notice two funny things that reminded us we were in 2014. On one end of the temple there was an ATM and another had a free wifi spot. We couldn’t believe it! Lol.

Finally, the most memorable part of our visit was a group of monks coming to pray together. Yes, there were monks everywhere but this was different. These monks came together to worship and varied in age from the young to the old. We sat behind them and just observed the peaceful setting. 

We left feeling so lucky to have experienced everything we had seen and felt in the last two days. We decided to head back to 999 Shan Noodle for another delicious breakfast before taking a quick nap. Our remaining few hours in Yangon were spent walking through strand street, the riverside and admiration of more of the old British buildings. Along the way, we discovered some local art galleries and and of course some more street food for a late afternoon snack. We had an evening bus scheduled for Bagan and loaded up on some snacks for our eight hour journey. We absolutely loved our time in Yangon and were sad to say goodbye so quickly but we were very excited to visit the city that inspired our trip. 

The Faces of Myanmar

Before I tell you about my trip to Myanmar, I want to introduce you to the people that defined my trip. They welcomed me to their country with a smile and made me fall in love with Myanmar and its people.

Photo by Jenny 

While exploring a local park in Yangoon, we came across this monk and thought wow he is bad ass. At first, we were afraid to approach him but Jenny finally got the courage and asked if she could take a photo of him. He said yes and then proceeded to smile and have a conversation with us. He was our first introduction to the hospitality of the Burmese people. This picture also goes to show that the Burmese are not afraid to show their own sense of style, something we saw repeatedly during our trip. 

Meet Mr. & Mrs. Iqbal. I was exploring the food selection of a street vendor and wasn't sure what some of the items were and Mr. Iqbal sensed my confusion and just jumped right in. He not only explained what each dish was but he also bought our meal. Pakistan came up during our conversation and they were so happy to meet a fellow Pakistani! They began to refer to Jenny and I as their daughters. I told them I really missed Faluda, a delicious dessert from Pakistan, and they immediately said you have to come with us to another restaurant. We went and they ordered me a Faluda and insisted on paying for it. Their love and generosity were humbling. They also invited us to their home for lunch the next day but unfortunately, we were unable to attend. 

Similar to the story above, this man took a liking to us because of Jenny's Tamil origins. He was so happy to practice his Tamil with someone! Known to us as the sweet shop man, he invited us for sweets and we ended up having a 30 minute conversation with him about Myanmar and its treasures before saying goodbye.

Silvia and Jutte (front left) were traveling from Germany and staying in the room across from ours in New Bagan. After Jenny said hello in German, they immediately took a liking to us and allowed us to spend the day exploring Mt. Popa with them. When we were leaving for Mandalay, both sisters gave us a big hug and blessed us so we would remain safe during journey. What I loved about them was their sense of adventure and openness to new things. Their two friends on the right were the exact opposite which made us appreciate Sylvia and Jutte even more! Their advice to us was, "always try new things and don't be afraid of the unknown."

Photo by Jenny 
Meet George. We met George after missing our ferry to Mingun by 5 minutes. We ended up spending an hour speaking with him and within the hour he arranged a private taxi for us and enabled us to see Mingun and many more sights for less than our budget. We were so grateful for all his help and the fact that he did it without expecting anything in return. Another example of the generosity of the Burmese people.

Photo by Jenny 

We met this man on Ubein bridge in Mandalay. He asked if I was from India and I said no I'm from Pakistan but I can understand Hindi. He immediately welcomed us to his country and was so happy to meet someone Hindustani. He told us his wished he could go back to India for Holi but meeting us was the next best thing. His family has been in Myanmar for over 200 years and he dreams of his ancestral land.

Naively, I told him he should go visit and then he explained his reality. Uneducated and without a real job, he cannot afford to so he sells pakoras to earn a livelihood and settles for just his dreams of India. He gave us a batch of pakoras and we insisted on paying and he responded, "don't stop me from doing the little I can." He left us in tears. 

Finally, my trip would not have been what it was without Jenny. She taught me how to truly embrace new experiences and how to handle change. I have grown so much as a person because of my time with her.  

Vancouver

I only got to spend one full day in Vancouver but I didn’t need more time to realize how much I love this city. It welcomes you with its natural beauty as soon as you land and it just keeps getting better and better. One any given day, your views include Grouse mountain, Mount Seymour, Lions Gate bridge, the downtown skyline and of course the harbor.

I was hoping to experience as much of it as I could in my limited time but unfortunately for me, it was raining on both days. I made the most of it by enjoying gems close to downtown. My first night, I met up with my lovely friend Rachel, also in town for TEDActive, for dinner at Cactus Club café Coal Harbor in Jack Poole Plaza. The restaurant offers panoramic views of the North Shore mountains and Stanley Park. I had been craving a burger and thin cut fries for months and it totally satisfied my craving!

Afterwards, we went for a walk along the waterfront to observe Janet Echelman’s beautiful piece, “Skies painted with unnumbered sparks” at night. It was absolutely beautiful. This interactive piece allows everyone to play with it and add designs with a downloadable app for smartphones. It really makes you feel like you are playing with the sky.

 

I came back to Vancouver a week later but this time I was with Doug and Asghar. We rented a beautiful penthouse in Chinatown through Airbnb and woke up to amazing views of the city. Our day started with great coffee from Musette Café, a hidden café tucked in an alleyway. Twisted fork was highly recommended for brunch but our late start resulted in an hour long wait for a table so we passed. We ended up grabbing lunch in a little bistro across from the Vancouver art gallery. With coffee and a full stomach we were ready to start our day!

Despite the rain, we signed up for a two hour walking tour. We went with Tour Guys Vancouver because of their fantastic reviews. Ali, our guide, started the tour with a brief history of Vancouver and its current state of affairs. Two things became apparent pretty quickly, it is eco-friendly and it cares about public space. There were bike lanes all over downtown. Public space is valued so much so that it is present in many private corporate buildings. Public art is all over the city. Heritage sites are respected. We learned the Christ Church Cathedral, the oldest church in town, was able to get a renovation by receiving a donation from a nearby developer in exchange for airspace. This city has figured out a way to get developers to invest in heritage sites! Needless to say, we were stunned and were taking lots of mental notes to bring back to our not so forward thinking city leaders. The mayor of Vancouver needs to have a chat with the mayor of Jacksonville.

After exploring downtown, we headed to Gastown. Birthplace of Vancouver, Gastown is a national historic site and the heart of Vancouver. It was initially a settlement that came about because of a saloon started by “Gassy” Jack Deighton, hence the name. The cobblestone streets are lined with boutiques, bars and some of the best restaurants in town. I didn’t have time to shop but I really enjoyed window shopping. One of Vancouver’s famous designers has his flagship store in the neighborhood. Check out Fluevog if you get the chance. I want to go back just to explore the little boutiques and vintage shops.

We also visited what used to be an iconic part of the Vancouver skyline, the Woodward building. The building has been demolished and the space is being put to great use. Developers and the city came to an agreement to include both market housing and public housing. The oldest part of the building serves as a non-profit office and a public atrium. The W neon sign was removed from the top and an energy-saving version is now outside on the ground. The space even has public art. Artist Stan Douglas completed an image depicting the 1971 Gastown riots. I loved how they transformed the building's identity from a skyscraper to a community space. 

We were really impressed by how much we learned from a two hour tour and really enjoyed Ali's company. Asghar and Doug even went on a public tour with him the next day.  

We decided to explore the waterfront next and took the SeaBus from Waterfront station. Our quick 15 minute ferry ride brought us to North Vancouver and Lonsdale Quay Market. We quickly explored the market and decided it was too touristy for us and headed back to downtown. Cold and wet, I decided to take a break with a hot chocolate from the world’s first international Starbucks located inside Waterfront station.

Our day of exploration ended just in time for dinner and per Ali's recommendation, we selected L’Abattoir. It is located in the center of Gastown between historic Goaler’s Mews and Blood Alley  in Vancouver’s first jail. I would recommend calling in advance because it is always packed. We had to eat at the bar, not a big deal but comfortable seating upstairs would have been better. It is on the pricier side but is worth every penny. The three of us loved our meals and really felt the mixtures of flavors were unlike anything we ever had before.

I flew back to Cambodia the next day and wasn't able to explore the rest of Vancouver’s neighborhoods with the guys but I hope to go back and experience it all over again in the Spring.

My week at TEDActive

I arrived to Canada not knowing what to expect at TEDActive. The anticipation had been building for months. The attendees had been connected to one another through our group Facebook page and TED Connect, TED’s app for the conference. I felt like I knew at least a dozen or so attendees pretty well but I also did not know them at all. Would I just be able to walk up to them and say hi and expect them to know me?

The conference officially started on Monday, March 17^th, but the experiences started many days prior. As attendees started arriving into Vancouver, they started hosting lunches, dinners, and other activities to get to know one another.

I arrived Saturday morning to a rainy Vancouver and was welcomed by TED’s lollipop sign at the airport and it’s banners downtown. My first introduction to the lovely people attending the conference was Ibrahim. Ibrahim was Doug’s roommate in Vancouver and one of the people I had met on Facebook. He was born in Norway and raised in Sudan and his family is from Somalia. Not more than 25 years old, he has already shifted careers from an oil engineer to a filmmaker. We got to know each other pretty well over the course of the week and what I love about Ibrahim is his ability to find a way to connect with anybody and everybody. At the end of the week, he had multiple people referring to themselves as his mom, sister, and brother.  I know I will be seeing him again.

For TEDx organizers, the events kicked off on Saturday. We were treated to a behind the scenes look at the TED conference in Vancouver. This included a 3D printer, a first class seat experience by Delta, a mini printing press by Target and all the interactive engagement stations created by TED. We also got to see the one of a kind brand new theater and watch some pretty phenomenal speakers rehearse. The wooden theater was built just for the event and will be packed away until next year.  Before leaving for our next venue, we were welcomed and thanked by Chris Anderson, the man behind TED, himself. It was a wonderful way to start the day.

We were reminded over and over again to be prepared for a workshop on a snowy mountain. That mountain was Grouse, located 30 minutes outside of downtown Vancouver. We arrived to rain and snow and went up the mountain for our workshop. Some opted to ice skate during our down time while others decided to remain indoors and enjoy the heat. I opted to snow shoe for the first time. It was a fun way to prepare for the weather in Whistler! The workshop was a great opportunity to exchange ideas and challenges with fellow TEDx organizers and learn from one another. Doug, Asghar and I came out with loads of fresh new ideas for our event on Oct 25.

Next up Whistler!

Whistler is about 2 hours north of Vancouver and is a resort town located in the Coast Mountains of British Columbia. TED describes TEDActive as, “a place to find opportunities to awaken latent creativity and let you rediscover the joy of making something with your own hands. Included in the TEDActive mix are TED leaders from around the world who are helping to foster TED's mission of spreading ideas: Volunteer translators, independent TEDx event organizers, TED Prize wish contributors and past TED Fellows.” I would say it’s the fun and less stuffy version of the TED conference.

I felt like a freshmen entering an adult summer camp of about 700 attendees. There were veterans that knew everyone and what to do at all times and then there were people like me, new to the experience and trying to go to every single thing so we would not miss a thing. What happened next changed me. I was constantly reminded to fight for what’s right and to always always chase my dreams.

Chris Hadfield encouraged me to conquer my fear.

David Kwong taught me human beings are wired to solve, to make order out of chaos and therefore we should never be afraid of accepting a challenge.

Amanda Burden made me think of Jacksonville and how much its leaders need to take the long view, a view for the common good.

Zak Ibrahim woke me up. He reminded me that violence is not inherent to one’s religion or race.

Charmian Gooch made us all rally behind her wish to end anonymous countries. Even took a selfie with us!

Hugh Herr showed me a person can never be broken.

Lawrence Lessig made me admire him immensely for taking on campaign finance reform.

Elizabeth Gilbert reminded us all that home is whatever in this world you love more than yourself.

Ed Yong made me love science all over again by showing me that parasites actually control us all!  

Sarah Lewis told us that it is in our nature to thrive not when we have done it all, but when we still have more to do.

Isabel Allende reminded us that society decides when we get old but the spirit never ages.  She also made me visualize Antonio Banderas lying on a tortilla.

Shaka Senghor encouraged us to change the prison system because it is currently designed to warehouse rather than reform people.

Simon Sinek made us realize that leadership is a choice, not a rank. Leaders choose to sacrifice and take the risk.

Kevin Briggs made me aware of the harsh reality of suicide and to always be available to listen.

Joi Ito eloquently stated education is what people do to you, learning is what you do for yourself, and to focus on the now rather than the past or the future.

Andrew Solomon made me feel tears of joy with his simple message: forge meaning, build identity.

Finally, Gabby Giffords showed me what resilience looks like. Her message was simple, get involved in your community, be a leader, set an example.

These were just the talks. Then there were the interviews with Edward Snowden, Richard Ledgett (director of NSA) and Larry Page. All of which were brilliant and made me feel extremely honored to support an organization that can make them all happen.

Most importantly, there were the people. My initial fears of how the week would go were put to rest as soon as the conference started. It didn't matter who was from where or how many of conferences they had attended, everyone was welcomed with a smile and it was as if we were all long lost friends. These were the most amazing people I have ever met in my entire life. They came from 65 countries and took my breath away.  They were open, welcoming, creative, brilliant and doers. I know that each and every one of them will change the world for the better. Some of them were TEDx organizers in countries where it is extremely difficult to cut through the red tape. They were from Uganda, Yemen, Somalia, Sudan and Egypt. They put on TEDx events and hope to change their communities for the better. I commend them and am in awe of them. 

TEDActive wasn’t just a conference. It was a life experience. I came back a different person, one who sees from a fresh new perspective and believes everything is possible.

I can’t wait to go back.

Back to the Real World

I can’t believe four weeks have passed since my last post. Sorry for disappearing! I have been meaning to write every week but I didn’t bring my laptop along for my 18 day adventure so I am a little behind. A lot has happened over the last 4 weeks and I can’t wait to get you up to speed.

I got back to Phnom Penh on Monday night and it was so strange to be back. It was almost as if the last two and a half weeks didn’t take place. I felt so numb on the tuk tuk ride home because I didn’t want to believe I was back. I missed my husband and I missed my life at home. The silence of the night was comforting and allowed me to take my time to process my emotions.

I had become used to my existence in Cambodia, without the luxuries of home and the warmth of my husband. And then by flying for a day, all that changed. Once again, I was enjoying all the first world amenities in Canada and was able to hug my husband whenever I wanted. It was wonderful! But to leave it all over again was really painful. It was hard to say goodbye again and it was hard to come back to a life of self discipline. The worst part was having a 24 hour trip ahead of me where I had nothing but time to think about it all.

Luckily, this period of angst only lasted for a day or two and then my life in Phnom Penh quickly took over. I am now back at work and busy with the next round of deadlines.  This week involved recovering from a cold and jet lag while dealing with the weekly things we have to do like getting groceries and doing laundry.

I finally feel like myself again and am looking forward to catching up on my blogposts. I am so excited to tell you about my experience at TEDActive and my trip to Myanmar. Stay tuned.

Three months to go!

Last week was my three month mark in Cambodia. I still have another three months to go but I know my time here will come to an end pretty quickly. There are still so many more things to experience and to look forward to in the remaining months, I feel like I am running out of time.  

Work has been extremely busy for the past few weeks and there is still so much to do before my contract finishes. I also have a few trips coming up and am looking forward to getting some new stamps in my passport. Next week, I head to Myanmar and then to Vancouver for TED Active (I'm counting down the days because I get to see Asghar there!) In April, I am heading to Laos and and then Vietnam in May. 

My French class is coming to an end this week. It was such an enjoyable class and I really liked interacting with my Khmer teacher and classmates. I hope I can keep up with what I have learned on Duolingo because I really love the language. I have also started to exchange emails with some friends in French as a way to practice. Shoot me one if you are interested as well!

Aside from French, I have been enrolled in an International Health and Human’s Rights class at Stanford for the past six weeks. This online course is free of charge and can be taken for a statement of accomplishment or just for fun. I am taking it for a statement of accomplishment. Each week seems to be better than the last and I feel my knowledge of women’s issues worldwide has increased significantly.  

The course is also extremely depressing. It turns out women all over the world are constantly experiencing human rights violations. Each week, I try to remain optimistic because of the small gains made over the last few decades but it is difficult to do so when I think about how much there is still left to do. So far, we have covered: human rights, education, female genital mutilation, HIV/AIDS, reproductive health, violence against women and women in war and refugee settings. This class keeps me pretty busy. I have four papers to write, two group meetings to discuss, weekly readings and short write-ups on the readings and weekly quizzes. The course finishes on April 1.

In other news, my new roommate moved in today. Her name is Soum and she is from France. She works with the Khmer Rouge Tribunal, otherwise known as the ECCC. I think we will have some interesting conversations about her work. I hope I get to attend one of the hearings while I am here!

I'd like to leave you with an interesting conversation I had at lunch last week. A colleague and I were in a pretty western neighborhood when a Filipino missionary approached us. She didn't want to talk about God. She just wanted our money, she placed two envelopes on the table and asked us to donate to God. I told her I am not interested and she proceeded to say, "how can you not care about God?'' I answered by saying it is each individual's choice and I rather not discuss it with her while I am having lunch. She got extremely upset and picked up her envelopes and then said, "You should donate money to God or else you will go to hell like all the Americans!'' I could not stop laughing and wanted to tell her that I was an American but she left pretty quickly. It still amazes me how many people in this world continue to think that every country is homogeneous. I know better than to assume where a person could be from just because of how they look. I am surprised others do not.